METHOD OF LAYING BRICKS
Tests
to find the quality of bricks have been studied in the previous article. Good
bricks should not disintegrate when placed in water. This is very important as
when these bricks are used with cement mortar, we should thoroughly soak them
before laying. Only when fat lime or clay mortar is used or when one is forced
to use bricks that are not well burnt, this soaking rule has to be relaxed. The
time of soaking can be found from a field test. In all cases, bricks should not
be handled in baskets or in any other mode which will destroy the sharpness of
their edges.
How do you build a masonry wall? |
Brick Laying Operation
The
operation of bricklaying in ordinary general work is as follows. A layer of
mortar is spread to cover the full width of the wall for a suitable length of
the lower course. The end brick is then laid on it. Each brick is then properly
bedded usually with frog up. (Bricks with 10 mm deep frog are to be laid with
frogs up and bricks with 20 mm deep frog are usually laid with frog down to
save the quantity of mortar.)
For
this purpose, the inside faces of each brick are buttered with mortar before
the next brick is laid and pressed against it by tapping it with the handle of
the trowel or wooden mallet. On completion of a course, the vertical joints are
fully filled with mortar from the top. Finally, we press the side bulging
mortar in firmly to be level with the face of the wall if it is to be left
unplastered.
In
the common practice adopted by many masons, a row of bricks is first placed on
a thin layer of bed mortar leaving the cross joints empty. Then a heap of
mortar is thrown over the top of the bricks and the cross joints are filled
with mortar placed on the top with a trowel or straight edge while adding a
copious amount of mortar. Strictly this is not a good practice. (However, when
using cement mortar of high strength, the loss of strength due to violation of
these rules may be only marginal.)
The
walls are raised truly plumb. All courses are laid truly horizontal and all
vertical joints truly vertical. Vertical joints in alternate courses should
come directly, one over the other. The thickness of the brick course is to be
kept uniform. For this purpose, a wooden straight edge with graduation giving a thickness of each brick course including joint can be used for guidance.
For
a thick wall, the above operation is repeated along with both faces of the wall and
the interior filling bricks for the thick wall are laid in a similar manner.
The open joints inside are filled with mortar as each course is completed.
This
operation of filling open joints is termed flushing-up. It is wrongly omitted
for several courses on some badly-executed jobs and only done afterwards (not
after every course) in an inefficient manner. It is not a good practice and
should be avoided as it is essential that every course should be flushed up to
the level if good work is required.
Grouting
When
brickwork is set with a fine joint, it is usual to fill the interior joints
with a thin liquid mortar. This process is called grouting.
Larrying
In
heavy engineering works or buildings, where the walls are very thick, the
facing bricks are laid in the usual manner. For laying the inner bricks, mortar
is shovelled into the interior of the course, spread out and water is added at
the same time to thin out the mortar.
The
filling bricks are then squeezed into position. The mortar rising and filling
the vertical joints completely and forms an exceedingly strong and solid
wall. This is known as larrying.
Building Rat Trap Bond
For
a rat trap bond work (as in the construction of cavity walls), if the mortar is placed
carelessly on the brick, some of it will fall into the cavities and will be
wasted.
To
avoid this, a piece of wood (about 1 metre long and 75 x 20 mm in section, as
used for cavity walls) can be held in the hole over the middle of the wall to
cover the cavities while applying the mortar.
What are the points to be considered
while constructing brick masonry?
Points to be Observed
(i)
At the end of the day's work, the top of the brickwork shall be thoroughly
cleaned of all mortar and the frogs, if laid up, are kept exposed to their full
depth so as to provide proper keying for the next course. The face of the
brickwork shall also be cleaned of all mortar droppings, etc.
(ii)
When circumstances render it necessary to carry on a portion of a building in
uneven courses, the work shall be built back (according to the bond used on the
work) at an angle not steeper than 45 degrees so as to ensure a uniform and
effective bonding. It should not be left toothed.
(iii)
If facework is to be left unplastered, every joint should be neatly struck at
the close of the day's work and before the mortar has completely set to give a
good appearance. Otherwise, for faces to be plastered, finishing of the face
joints should be carried out as discussed in below (This is very important.)
(iv)
The walls should be uniformly raised all around not leaving any part one metre
(three feet) lower than the other. A day's work should not be more than 1.5 m
high.
(v)
All iron fixtures such as holdfasts, pins, etc., to be built in the wall
should be embedded in cement mortar or cement concrete in their correct
positions preferably during the progress of the work itself or arrangements
should be made to fix it without breaking the wall.
How to prepare the brick surface for plastering?
Preparation of Brick Surface Meant for
Plastering
When
the facework is to be later plastered or the joints alone are to be pointed,
the joints must be raked while the wall is being built. It should be raked to a
minimum depth of 12 mm by a raking tool during the progress of the work itself,
when the mortar is still green.
If
this raking is not carried out during the erection of the wall, the plaster to
be added later may detach or fall off due to lack of grip, especially from
smooth machine moulded bricks. If plastering or pointing is not envisaged, the
joints must be struck flush and finished at the time of laying itself, as
already stated.
What Is the Correct Ratio of Sand to Cement for Masonry?
How do you build a half brick wall?
How do you build a 4.5” brick wall?
Half-brick
walls tend to crack unless care is taken in its construction. Brickwork in
half-brick masonry is to be carried out with stretchers in 1 : 5 mortar.
In
special cases, if it is considered necessary to reinforce the same (as in long
lengths of walls) with two 6 mm MS bars provided at every third or fourth
course in 20 mm rich cement mortar 1 : 3. Half the mortar joint (10 mm) is
first laid and the other half (10 mm) is laid after the reinforcement is placed
so that it is fully embedded in the mortar. (Any contact of the reinforcement
with the brick will hasten corrosion of the steel and damage of the wall.)
These
walls are generally plastered with cement plastering 1 : 5 with a thickness of 12
mm. This plastering also adds to the strength. If these walls are planned to be
stopped at door height (as usually done in the tiled roofs with ceilings), the walls
should not be stopped exactly at top of the door level and abruptly left at
that level.
One
layer of bricks should be laid over the door frame and throughout the length of
the wall and then only the partition wall should be finished. A top layer of
steel in cement mortar is also advisable.
MUST-READ: Types of Bonds Used In Brick Masonry Wall Construction And Their Uses
How to Protect and
Brickwork
should be protected from rain by suitable covering when the mortar is green.
Ideally curing of brickwork, especially in cement mortar, is done (as in
concrete work) by thoroughly saturating it with water after setting of mortar
(preferably after covering it with straw, hessian, gunny bags, etc.) for
fourteen days.
For
important works, further curing by wetting once a day is to be continued for
another seven days. However, in actual practice, the curing is carried out by
keeping the work moist for a minimum period of seven days only. Brickwork in
lime mortar also requires gradual drying out but does not require as careful
curing as brickwork in cement mortar. (Lime mortar acquires strength by
carbonation.)
How to Do Scaffolding For Brickwork?
Ideally, double scaffolding with two sets of verticals is to be used for exposed and
important works. For ordinary works, single scaffolding with one end of
horizontals resting on the wall being built is permitted.
Where
the scaffolding pole rests on the wall, only one header brick shall be left out
so that the bond of the wall can easily be made complete and perfect after the
scaffolding is removed. Such holes shall not be allowed in places such as in
pillars or columns (less than one metre in width) carrying heavy loads.
Where 4.5 Inch Wall Used in Building
Construction?
Half brick wall or 4.5 inches
(120mm) thick brick wall used for internal wall partition
Can we use a 4.5-inch wall as a load-bearing?
No
How many bricks equal a cubic foot?
14 nos
How many bricks are in a lorry load?
3000nos
This article provides key tips for civil engineers on bricklaying in construction. It underscores testing brick quality, emphasizing their water resistance. Soaking bricks before laying is crucial, except for certain situations. Field tests help determine soaking time. Careful handling is stressed to maintain brick edges. These insights ensure strong and precise brickwork.
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