Primarily it is needed to
take preventive measures wherever feasible before facing any failure on a small
or large scale. A small investment or preventive measure is taken at the initial
stage not only prevents failure but also gives a long life of the building.
Then maintenance plays a
major role to make every component of a building function properly and at
the same time increases the lifespan of the building.
Maintenance of floors,
doors and windows, sanitary appliances, water supply, drainage system and electrical
system are all important.
Further, checking of
leakages, identifying the causes of cracks and repairing them or make some
preventive measures to avoid such fractures in future. Special repairs, if any,
are to be attended to then and there. Apart from the routine maintenance annual
general maintenance of a building should be made and implemented.
MAINTENANCE OF
FLOORINGS
As there are many types of floors constructed,
maintenance of some of the important floors are dealt with below.
Terrazzo Floors
Cleaning of terrazzo floors with water may be taken up
after 3 months of laying. After this period, it should be swabbed daily using
clean water and a clean rough swab (floor cloth) which should be rinsed in
water frequently so as to avoid dirt being back onto the floor. The floor is
then allowed to dry in the air. After this initial cleaning, ordinary swabbing
shall keep the floor shining.
Sometimes acid polishing of terrazzo floors is resorted
to after machine polishing during the first laying of the floor. If need be,
this can be repeated. Oxalic acid is used for acid cleaning. After acid
polishing, the following day the floor is wiped with a moist rag and washed
clean with water.
Marble Floors
For marble floors, daily maintenance is to be made. This
is carried out by mopping with a mild detergent in water. Marble gets easily
stained and scarred. If there is a spill on the floor, it should be cleaned
immediately.
Stubborn stains should be removed based on the type. If
the stain is from grease, a paste of chalk dust or whiting with acetone. This
mixture is applied on the stain and allowed to stand overnight. The mixture is
sponged off and the treated area is buffed. If the stain is from any organic
source like tea, fruit juice, etc., chalk powder with hydrogen peroxide mixture
is used. This paste can also remove stains due to rust. Such stains can also be
removed by dry borax and damp cloth followed by warm water rinsing.
Linoleum Floors
For this floor mopping with kerosene oil can pick up all
the dirt. After the removal of dirt, the floor may be wiped with water and
mopped well to set a polished surface.
Concrete Floors
A properly constructed
concrete floor should be dust-free under normal use. Dusts in floors can be
reduced by the application of a hardener, or by waxing, or by painting it with
a solution of oil spirit. For such application, raw or boiled linseed oil
mixed with an equal amount of turpentine has been found to be effective.
Painting with epoxy, acrylic or chlorinated rubber base is also used.
Wax polishing with
proprietary polish is also popularly used. This polish may be made at site by
mixing a 25% solution of melted beeswax in turpentine together with pigment at
the rate of 60% by weight of beeswax. The wax is applied on the floor which
hardens after 12 hours and the surface is sprinkled with French chalk and
polished with dry cloth. About 200 gm of beeswax shall cover an area of 10 m2.
If the floor has to be
roughened, it is usually done by washing the floor with dilute hydrochloric
acid. The dilute acid is applied at the rate of 0.3 l/m2 of floor
area. The acid is left for 15 minutes and then brushed. Then the floor is
thoroughly cleaned with water. If need be three successive applications may be
given.
Other Floors
All stone floors may be
maintained by mopping with mild detergent and water at regular intervals.
Ceramic tile floors are
easy to maintain. Soap and water can be used to clean the floors and special
care has to be taken to clean the joints. Stains, if any, may be removed as
explained in marble floors.
Wooden floor is to be
cleaned and kept bright by polishing with beeswax or ready-made wax polish.
MAINTENANCE OF DOORS
AND WINDOWS
In the maintenance of doors and windows both wood work
and glass, work should be taken care of.
Maintenance of Woodwork
Woods in general get
deteriorated with time due to water and direct exposure to sun. However, teak
wood may need less maintenance. Other woods should be periodically painted and
kept clean. In moist conditions, both dry and wet rots grow which will be the worst
in the toilet room. This can be prevented by providing adequate ventilation and
painting.
The bottom of bathroom doors
has to be protected by painting with waterproof paints. White putty glazing is
used for ordinary wood and in teakwood glazing with beads is usually carried
out.
Maintenance of Glass
Glasses fitted to doors and
windows are kept clean using clean tepid water. In order to remove dirt and
stains cleaning liquids available in the market may be used. Instead, cleaning can
be made by mixing two tablespoons of household ammonia or white vinegar with
1.25 l of water. This is
sprayed using a sprayer. Cleaning has to be taken up from top to bottom and the
glass is dried by a cotton swab followed by a crumbled newspaper. One side has
to be wiped horizontally and the other side vertically.
MAINTENANCE OF WATER
SUPPLY SYSTEM
Sumps and overhead tanks
are to be in closed conditions and should be cleaned periodically. Exposure
of sump and overhead tanks lead to mosquito breeding and the formation of algae.
Taps and other fixtures
should be kept in working condition so as to avoid wastage of water. They
should be repaired wherever they become defective. Taps, chrome fittings,
basins, etc., can be cleaned with liquid ammonia in water. Material for
polishing of metals is also available in the market.
MAINTENANCE OF SANITARY APPLIANCES
The main problems with sanitary applications like water
closets, washbasins, etc., are the growth of fungus and algae. A solution of
chloride of lime (bleaching powder) in hot water will remove surface stains
from ceramic ware and tiles. A simple application of moistened cloth in hot water
and a little paraffin will effectively restore the lustre of porcelain and
glazed surfaces. There are ready-made cleaning materials which are also
available in the market. If the sewage is to be treated by a septic tank, chemicals
and detergents should not be used as they may kill the bacteria in the septic
tank.
MAINTENANCE OF
DRAINAGE SYSTEM
All the soil and waste-disposal system must be kept
clean and should be in working condition. Otherwise, nuisance and unhealthy
conditions prevail. Main items of the drainage system to be taken care of are
discussed below (Varghese, 2012).
Fittings Inside the Buildings
Water taps, wastewater pipes, traps in fittings, grating
above floor trap, etc., should be periodically checked. This is done by pouring
water on them and examining their performance. Otherwise, they are liable to
be clogged if the passage of water is not with adequate force. Gratings at bathrooms
have to be periodically checked for clogging due to hair, oil, etc. Blocking if
any may be removed using drain cleaning compounds or manually wherever
feasible.
Waste and Soil Pipes
Waste pipes and soil pipes which are fixed on the walls
are to be checked periodically. Wherever feasible PVC pipes may be used with
balloons on the top should be checked and replaced if necessary.
Gulley and Manholes
Before the onset of monsoon, gulleys, manholes, manhole
covers and drain pipes are to be examined. In order to prevent backflow from the street sewer, the outlet to the sewer should be checked. By chemical sprays,
cockroaches are to be destroyed and stagnation of water should be avoided.
Roof Drainage System
Before the rainy season, the roof drainage system should
be inspected. Horizontal and vertical drainage systems are to be cleaned and
leakages repaired. Rectification should be attended to, particularly horizontal
drain pipes, to prevent the blockage of wastewater.
Septic Tanks
Grease, slow decomposing matter, etc., should be avoided
in the drains for the efficient working of a septic tank. Further
drain-cleaning chemicals should be avoided which can kill the bacteria in the
septic tank.
When the depth of the sludge and scum exceeds half the
depth of the tank, digested sludge should be removed. A portion of the sludge
should be left in the tank to act as a seed to the fresh sewage. If the action
in the septic tank is dull ¼ kg of brewer’s yeast is added to the tank to hasten
the action. Signs of a defective system is to be noticed when foul colours
appear from the drains or the tank and growth of lush vegetation over the tank.
If water backs up in the drain, it is to be realised that clogging by sludge
and scum has happened.
MAINTENANCE OF
PAINTWORK
Washable paints can be cleaned with clean water. Most of
the paints, viz., soda, soft soap and other alkaline substances are injurious.
In order to remove stains, they should be highly diluted and removed off the
paint with clean water as soon as the dirt is removed.
Re-paint of surfaces have to be done before the old
paint disintegrates. Quality of paint contributes to the life of the work.
Frequent painting of external surfaces may be prevented by the use of special
exterior paints. Also, special paints may be used to paint the underside of the
wet area, such as bathrooms and lavatories if wall tiles are not provided.
All steelworks are to be carefully observed. They
should be regularly cleaned with clean water. Rusted parts, if any, should be
removed and re-painted. Special attention are required if steel windows are
used in buildings.
MAINTENANCE OF
BRICKWORK
Cracks are frequently found in brick masonry walls.
Causes for such cracks have been discussed in the previous post. It has been
discussed that prevention of cracks in brick masonry may be avoided by proper
foundation design and providing different joints such as expansion joints,
isolation joints, sliding joints, etc.
Maintenance of brickwork involves in cleaning, removal
of efflorescence, repairing of cracks, re-painting brickwork and re-painting
old brick joints.
Cleaning Brickwork
Brickwork has to be cleaned with steam or steam and hot
water jets. This treatment is suitable for fine-textured and hard-burnt
bricks. Sandblasting can also be done. However, this disturbs the texture of
the bricks and absorbs the painting.
Removal of Efflorescence in Brickwork
Soluble salts after drying get deposited on the surface
of the walls as a white layer. These salts may be present in the material of the
walls and come out. Sources of these salts are mortars and plasters. As
moisture is the cause for the creation of efflorescence, this can be checked by
proper damp prevention.
Efflorescence can be removed by scrubbing those portions
on the wall with water and a tough brush. For effective use instead of water,
10% of the solution of muriatic acid may be used. After this treatment, the wall
has to be rinsed with clean water or with a weak ammonia solution.
Repairing of Cracks in Brickwork
Cracks in brickwork are rectified by adopting the following
procedure:
1. If the cracks are less than 1.5 mm in width, the
cracks may be filled with commercially available putty.
2. Wider cracks are repaired by releasing them out to
about 25 mm and re-filling with 1 cement, 2 lime, 9 sand mortar or any crack-filling
material available in the market.
3. Still wider cracks may have to be stitched by using
reinforced mortar or concrete stitching blocks.
Re-pointing Old Brickwork
In the case of brickwork which is pointed may be needed
to re-point in order to improve the appearance and to make it watertight.
Generally, mortar at the pointed portions gets lost due to rain, wind, freezing,
etc. The following procedure may be followed for re-pointing:
1. The joint of the old mortar is loosened and scraped
out and cleaned for a depth of at least 3 mm and wetted with water.
2. New mortar is applied to the joints with a special
trowel and pointed as per practice.
Re-painting Brickwork
Re-painting is necessary for walls that have been
previously painted. The type of paint and colour should be decided and
accordingly, the surface has to be prepared.
MAINTENANCE OF
STONEWORK
Maintenance of stonework involves in removing
efflorescence and stains, repair of cracks and waterproofing.
Removal of Efflorescence in Stonework
The appearance of efflorescence occurs commonly due to use
of the certain type of mortars. Removal of efflorescence has to be done as done in
brickwork. Stones are to be kept saturated with water to remove the action of
acids.
Removal of Stains in Stonework
Removal of stains can be done easily if its origin is
known. Iron stains show a rusty appearance which can be removed by rinsing the
area with a solution of ½ kg oxalic acid in 5 l of water. After 2–3 hours, the
surface should then be scrubbed with a brush and clean water. Darker stains may
be removed with six parts of water, one part of sodium citrate and one part of
glycerine, made into a paste with adequate whiting. This paste is applied on
the surface and then kept for a few days.
For very deep and dark stains, one part of sodium
citrate is mixed with six parts of water. This solution is applied to the
surface of stains. This is followed by covering the surface with a thin layer
of sodium hydro-sulphite crystals and removed after an hour. This may be
repeated if needed.
Repair of Cracks in Stonework
Repairing of cracks has to be attended to by ensuring that
the settlement causing the crack has ceased. This generally takes about one
year for the complete settlement.
Small cracks are cleaned with a wire brush and a thick
paste of cement mix is forced into the crack. In order to get a firm key for
the mortar, large cracks should be raked. An inverted V groove is made with a
minimum of 1 cm depth. A cement mortar of 1:2 ratio is applied with less
water. The mixture is forced into the crack to get a firm bond. Along with this
mixture expansive agents are added to improve the bond.
Waterproofing of Stonework
In order to keep the stone
masonry free from dampness, efflorescence, frost action, etc., colour-less
waterproofing materials is applied waterproofing materials obtained from heavy
petroleum distillates, oils or insoluble soaps are best. It is difficult to
waterproof very closely textured stones. Waterproofing materials substances
containing resins are not suitable for fine-textured stonework. Waterproofing
causes some dislocation which goes from the stones in course of time.
CRACKS AND REMEDIAL
MEASURES IN CONCRETE
Causes of cracks, remedial measures and repair of cracks
in concrete are discussed.
Causes of Cracks in Concrete
Cracks in concrete may be plastic shrinkage cracks,
settlement cracks, cracks due to bleeding, cracks due to delayed concrete
casting and cracks due to construction effects are discussed the previous post.
Preventive Measures for Crack in Concrete
Preventive measures for cracks in concrete are discussed
in Section 8.11. Apart from them, joints in concrete structures are provided to
continue a specific work or prevent cracks due to change in temperature.
The following two types of joints are usually provided
in concrete structures:
(i) Construction joints
(ii) Expansion and contraction joints
1. Construction Joints
This type of joints is
provided at the location where the construction is stopped at the end of the day’s
work or for any other reason so as to bridge the old work and the new work by a
proper bond. Such a situation generally occurs when large concrete work has to
be executed which cannot be done within a day.
If the work is well planned
such that the day’s work is to be stopped at an expansion or contraction joint,
in such a case there is no need for a construction joints.
The construction joints may
be vertical, horizontal or inclined depending on the type of structure. In the
case of inclined or curved members, the joint should be perpendicular to the
axis of the structural member. The position of the construction should be well
planned and constructed keeping in view the stability of the structure.
Construction joints may be provided for structures that are vertical,
horizontal or inclined (Fig. below).
Construction
joint in different positions
Depending on the type of concrete structures the
following factors should be considered.
(i)
Columns
Columns should be concreted to a few centimetres below
its junction with the lowest soffit of the beam. Construction above joint
should be at least 4 hours after the completion of the joint. Care should be
taken such that the construction joint is at the location of least bending
moment.
(ii)
T or L Beams
The ribs of T or L beams are first concreted and then
slabs forming the flanges are concreted up to the centre of the rib
(Fig. below). In certain situations, if a construction joint has to be provided
between the slab and beam, the rib of the beam is concreted up to 25 mm below
the level of the soffit of the slab and the joint should be located at that level.
Construction joint on T-beam
(iii)
Simply Supported Slabs
In slabs supported on two sides, the construction joint
should be vertical and parallel to the main reinforcement. Alternatively the
joint may be provided at the middle of the span perpendicular to the main
reinforcement. For two-way slabs, the construction joint is provided near the
middle of either span.
(iv)
RCC Wall
In this case, the location of the joint depends on the
convenience in placing the framework and the access of compaction of concrete.
The continuity of the joint is made by the formation of a key (Fig. below (a)).
The arrangement of the formation of key and the finished position of the key is
shown in Fig. below (b).
Construction joint
in RCC Walls
2. Expansion and Contraction Joints
These joints are provided in all concrete structures when the length exceeds 12 m. These joints are made to satisfy the following requirements:
(i) To accommodate for
changes in the volume of concrete due to temperature.
(ii) To retain the
appearance by maintaining the same shape of the concrete structures.
The
joints are filled with some elastic materials like filters or dowels of keys.
The quality of the filter should be in a position to withstand cold weather.
It should be compressible, cellular and not brittle. The Conventional materials
used as filters are strips of metal, bitumen-treated felt, cane fibre-board,
cork, softwood, etc.
The provision of dowels or keys is to transfer the load. The movement due to shrinkage is
controlled by the contraction joint. The contraction joint may be complete or
partial. In the complete contraction joint, there is complete discontinuity of
both concrete and steel (Fig. below). In the partial contraction joint, there is
a discontinuity of concrete but the reinforcement bars are continued across the
joint (Fig. below).
Complete contraction joint
Partial contraction joint
Stitching of Cracks in Concrete Members
At times cracks do develop in concrete members due to
several reasons such as the design of construction deficiency, problems with
concrete, disturbance at an early stage, etc. If such cracks are localized in
nature they can be repaired either by epoxy grouting or by stitching. The
choice of either of them depends on the discretion of the concerned engineer
and the intensity of the cracking (Gambhir, 2010).
Stitching consists of drilling holes on both sides of the
crack, and inserting U-shape metallic strips (stitching dogs) spanning across
the cracks. The bonding of the metallic strips with parent concrete can either
by with non-shrink grout or an epoxy-based bonding system. It is preferable if the
metallic strips are variable in length and orientation with closer spacing at
the ends of cracks (Fig. below).
Stitching of concrete cracks
However, the stitching does not close a crack, but only
prevents it from further widening. Such stitches, when encased with an overlay
have been reported to be performing well in several cases.
Repair of Concrete
by Gunite and Shotcrete
Gunite is one of the popular methods undertaken to
repair cracks and other damages in concrete members. Guniting is the process of
injecting mortar with a low water-cement ratio at high pressure through a
nozzle. This method has been improvised in that only concrete with
small-sized coarse aggregate instead of mortar is used. This method is called
shotcrete.
In both methods, the affected concrete part should
be cleaned before the operation and gunite or shotcrete is applied. Former
small thickness or width of gap gunite is used whereas shotcrete is
recommended for larger thickness. The materials used for gunite are cement,
sand and water and for shotcrete are cement, sand and small aggregate and
water. For the quick setting of gunite, accelerators are also added.
CHECKING BUILDING
LEAKAGE
Although adequate care has been taken by providing
weatherproofing of roofs, leakage may occur with time due to a lack of proper
maintenance. Leakage of the roof due to rainwater may spoil the materials stored
in the room, may damage the electrical circuits, may wet the walls, etc.
Leakages may occur in different types and different parts of a roof which are
discussed below.
Leakage in Sloping Roofs
All parts of the sloping roof are to be checked for leakage.
It is difficult to repair after construction, particularly tiled roofs. It is
generally recommended to apply a waterproofing coating at the construction
stage itself. Tiled roofs leak during heavy rain due to lack of this
precaution.
Other sloping roofs like folded plates, shells, etc.,
are made out of concrete. These roofs would not have been compacted properly
due to the sloping surface. During normal rains, there is no problem with leakage.
During heavy rains, water may seep through the concrete and tend to leak. A
cement coating may fill the porous concrete followed by a waterproofing coating that may stop further leakage.
Leakage of Flat Roofs
Following preventive measures and repairs may be
undertaken to prevent leakage.
1. During the construction stage itself, flat concrete roofs
are to be cured perfectly. Any leakage noticed at this stage can be rectified
easily. All surfaces can be given a coat of hot blown asphalt after curing.
2. Adequate slope may be given to the drainpipe joints
such that stagnation of water is prevented.
3. Wherever the horizontal surfaces meet the vertical or
inclined faces, fillets are to be provided. The gap formed with time has to be
closed periodically.
4. All the entry points of the rainwater should be
checked and should not be blocked by leaves, wastes, etc.
5. Weathering courses, like flat tiles, laid on the roof
should not crack. If cracks are found they should be closed immediate by
grouting or otherwise.
6. Very porous concrete slabs may have to be grouted.
Leakage Through Junction of Walls and Sunshades
This is very commonplace where the leakage occurs which
are to be checked and rectified as discussed below.
1. At the construction stage itself, proper slope and
drainage arrangements are to be checked. Any architectural features made over
sunshade should not give room for the stagnation of water. A throating at the
bottom end of sunshades shall make the water drip properly.
2. In long sunshades there is a possibility of cracking
at the ends. Such cracks make room to flow water on the walls. These cracks
should be filled with bituminous or elastomeric compounds. The top of the sunshade
should be kept clean always, particularly before the onset of the monsoon.
Leakage Through Wall Cracks
All the external cracks found on walls should be
deepened to 5 mm and filled with paintable sealant. In order to keep the
external walls crack-free, waterproof cement or external paint may be used.
Walls containing air-conditioning or other electrical connections may be
painted with silicon paint to prevent the wetting of walls during rains.
MAINTENANCE OF
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
It is better to have an ELCB trip switch in the
electrical system of the buildings. This is helpful to show the earth leakage.
All electrical switches should be kept clean, particularly ones at the kitchen
which are liable to be clogged up by grits accumulated. In order to avoid the menace of ants and white ants, it is better to keep anti-ant chemicals in the
switch boxes. If the performance of bearings, condensers, regulators, etc., is
not good, they have to be attended to. High amperage gadgets like heaters,
air-conditioners, etc., are liable to get heated up and burnt. They should be
plugged tightly or should be connected through fused outlets. It is advisable
to have phase-changing devices in the electric supply system and thereby
changing phases wherever there is a need. Savings in electricity can be made by
the use of fluorescent lamps, LCD lamps for lighting and capacitance type fans.
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SOURCE: Basic Civil Engineering
Fourth Edition
MS. Palanichamy
Vice-Chairman
Tamil Nadu State Council for Technical Education Chennai, Tamil Nadu
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